1950s

1950s jewelry ranged on the spectrum from glamorous and elegant to fun and artsy. The jewelry was a welcome departure from the 40s austerity and big retro styles.

900459 - Burma Ruby Diamond Cluster Ring

A defining element of 1950s fashion came from the New Look, specifically Christian Dior’s Corolle collection launched in 1947, characterized by a defined waistline and full flowing skirt. This curvy feminine silhouette would become the archetypal image of the 1950s woman. Dior’s designs rejected the tailored shoulder-padded, slim-skirted suits that were typical of World War II fashion. A fresh, universal ideal of beauty accompanied the new social and gender roles for women in the 1950s, and jewelry styles evolved accordingly.

97887 - Circa 1950 Platinum Diamond Ring

Pearls were common and multi-strand necklaces were immensely popular. They were the perfect accessory for the classic “little black dress”. Strand lengths were either short so they could be seen above a modest neckline, or waist length in the mid-1950s. Grace Kelly was frequently pictured wearing pearls, and subsequently was a fan of the jewelry style. Jewelry featuring pearls was raised to iconic status as a result of this endorsement. A single pearl stud earring and a single or double strand pearl necklace was the required day wear for most outfits. Drop pearl earrings were an option for women with pierced ears, however most women used clip on or screw back earrings.

72976 - Platinum Diamond Circa 1960

For decades, wearing flashy jewelry in the daytime was seen as vulgar. In the 50s wearing jewelry during the day was encouraged in ads and popular Hollywood star sponsorships.

73080 - Circa 1950 Diamond Woven Bracelet

Brooches were a wardrobe staple, often being worn in groups on the shoulder. Gold pieces such as wide bracelets and big button earrings were worn as daytime jewelry and the “diamond look” was often seen in the evenings. Rules of etiquette dictated that wardrobes appeared considered and coordinated, and sets of matching pieces (parure) completed the modern women’s look. 

23915 - Circa 1950s Platinum Diamond Sapphire Pin

Depending on its placement a brooch might draw attention to a soft, rounded shoulder or the delicate collarbone area, thus showing off the curve of a neckline or accentuating the ruffle of a scarf.

Earrings drew attention to the wearer’s neck, jawline, face, and hairstyle. A longer necklace accentuated feminine curves. Knowing how to dress well was synonymous with social acceptance.

52742 - Circa 1950 Diamond Pinwheel Earrings

Yellow gold settings were popular in the 1950s. Rose-gold was also favored, especially when paired with rubies and warm color gems. Gold was also worn on its own. Gold button earrings, gold flowers and leaf necklaces, gold cuff bracelets and gold figure brooches were large but simple. Gold chain bracelets and necklaces were very fashionable in the late 50s.

73263 - Oscar Heyman Platinum Diamond Ruby Bracelet

Sources:

Understanding Jewellery
David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Publisher: Antique Collectors Club Dist; 3rd Edition (January 25, 2007) ISBN-10 : 9781851494309

https://vintagedancer.com/1950s/1950s-jewelry-styles-trends/