Black, Starr & Frost
23259 - Filigree Black Starr & Frost Edwardian Pin
When Marilyn Monroe crooned “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” in the 1953 film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, she gave shout-outs to Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Harry Winston — and Black, Starr & Frost-Gorham. (Gorham was dropped in 1962) Black, Starr & Frost may not boast the name recognition of those other brands, but, it’s the one with the most history. Widely recognised as the oldest jewelry firm in America, Black, Starr & Frost trace their roots back to Isaac Marquand who in 1810 opened a little shop at 164 Broadway in New York City, named Marquand & Company.
72598 - Black Onyx Art Deco Black Starr & Frost Bracelet
Already an established silversmith and clock maker, Marquand sold a variety of goods including silverware and jewelry from a small private office. The firm added and lost partners numerous times. It also frequently moved locations in accordance with the addresses of its prestigious clientele. Its merchandise was eclectic and varied, including lamps, jewelry, porcelain and artistic objects. By 1833 the firm had street level premises and they installed large plate glass windows through which to display their merchandise to pedestrians walking by. This enabled the new fashionable pastime of ‘window shopping’. In 1851, when William Black and Henry Ball joined the firm, the name was changed to Ball, Black & Company. By 1860, a beautiful purpose built building in gleaming white marble stood proudly on the corner of Broadway and Prince Street. One particularly notable client at this time was America’s First Lady, Mary Todd Lincoln. Known for her love of spending, she made frequent trips to New York where she would frequent various retail establishments, including Ball, Black & Co. Unfortunately, it would seem that she wasn’t always very prompt at settling her account, and when President Lincoln was assassinated in 1865, she was left owing the firm $64,000.
900890 - Platinum Natural Pearl Diamond Black Starr & Frost Edwardian Ring
In 1874 the company reorganized and Cortlandt W. Starr was promoted to partner alongside Aaron Frost thereby forming Black, Starr & Frost. The firm moved to 251 Fifth Avenue, and its inventory became focused on jewelry and silver objects, some imported from Europe, some produced in-house. For many decades, Black, Starr, & Frost was considered one of the great American jewelers. Also in 1876, it was invited to exhibit at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia along with renowned firms like Tiffany & Co.. In 1929 it merged with Gorham to become Black, Starr, Frost—Gorham. In 1939, the firm was one of five American jewelers invited to exhibit at New York’s World’s Fair.
53777 - Black Starr & Frost "Constantino" Roman Coin Earrings
Black, Star, & Frost has produced exquisite jewelry in almost every era. Their jewelry reflected the current popular styles from the dainty Belle Époque chokers and rings of the early part of the century moving towards the bolder clips, sautoirs and bracelets of the 1920s and 30s Art Deco period. With its New York City offices at Fifth Avenue and 48th Street, known as the diamond district in New York City, the 20th Century saw the company go from strength to strength and its reputation as one of the leading jewelers in New York was firmly established. Black, Starr & Frost has had a large clientele including Elizabeth Taylor, the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Carnegies, Guggenheims, Bunny Mellon, and many others.
901177 - Black Starr & Frost Wedding-band Ring
As recently as 1991, Black, Starr & Frost had 33 locations, including a flagship in New York City’s Plaza Hotel; 15 years later, it had shrunk to just one, in Costa Mesa, Calif. In 2006, 11th-generation jeweler Alfredo Molina acquired the firm. He moved the store to nearby Newport Beach, and opened a second Black, Starr & Frost store in Phoenix.
Sources:
American Jewelry: Glamour & Tradition
Proddow, Penny and Debra Healy. Published by Rizzoli, New York (1987) ISBN 10:0847808300
https://blackstarrfrost.com/timeline-2/
https://www.hancocks-london.com/maker/black%2C-starr-%26-frost/
https://www.wsj.com/articles/the-oldest-american-jeweler-youve-never-heard-of-1454006308