Etruscan Revival

The appeal of Etruscan Revival jewelry is tied to the ancient Etruscans,  whose civilization flourished on the western coast of Italy from approximately 700 – 300 BC.  Wealthy Etruscans were buried in massive tombs, along with their jewelry and other earthly possessions.   Just outside Rome in the 1830s, a series of Etruscan tombs were discovered. When opened, the beautiful gold-work found within captured the imagination of the Victorian public.   Intricately wrought golden earrings and necklaces were meticulously ornamented with tiny gold beads and twisted wires densely applied to the surface. Gold work like that had never been seen. One of a kind, pieces of jewelry art, had been hidden in tombs since the mysterious Etruscans had carefully buried the treasures with their dead.

43984 - Victorian Etruscan Revival Turquoise Drop Necklace

In the nineteenth century, characteristics of Etruscan Revival jewelry include use of high karat gold and semi-precious stones like lapis, malachite and agates, and most distinguishable, the use of intricate filigree and granulation.  The secret to that fascinating granulation found on the Etruscan hoards was claimed to have been discovered by Fortunato Pio Castellani and he produced many replicas of archaeological treasure finds using ancient techniques.

51487 - Victorian Etruscan Revival Circa 1860 Earrings

The firm of Castellani of Rome, and later London, were at the forefront of the study of the achievements of the Etruscan gold workers. The Castellani family produced jewelry that included intricate micro-mosaics of fantastic designs, and were much copied by other jewelers.  The Etruscan Revival artisans of this period, did much to raise the level of the art of the mosaic with tight and neat execution

23722 - Gold Diamond Coral Blue Enamel Victorian Etruscan Revival Suite

The distinctive style of Etruscan Revival jewels tend to use simple geometric designs enhanced with patterns made of tiny gold granules, small blossoms, and filigree wire applied with absolute precision. Classic urns in the Etruscan style adorned lockets with the dear departed’s hair against the grieving heart.

73495 - Victorian Etruscan-Revival Gold Flexible Bracelet

Victorian Etruscan Revival jewelry took on every form possible, from parures (a complete set of matching pieces) to individual brooches, bracelets, lockets, necklaces, earrings, and more. Large medallions, settings of hardstones, mosaics and coins.  Substantial chains made of alternating sections, and pendants of tapering urns and fringe.

23627 - Victorian Etruscan Micro Mosaic Lamb Dove Locket (and suite)

Sources:

Understanding Jewellery
David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Publisher: Antique Collectors Club Dist; 3rd Edition (January 25, 2007) ISBN-10 : 9781851494309

FORBES
https://www.forbes.com/sites/bethbernstein/2019/12/05/masterful-jewelers-and-historial-pieces-at-christies-magnificent-jewels-sale/#4cf1da7e4252

SOTHEBY’S - JEWELS FROM THE HOUSES OF CASTELLANI & GIULIANO
https://sothebys.gcs-web.com/static-files/09dec02d-73e1-41b2-b54d-022b8a552c9a

NewYorkTimes
https://www.nytimes.com/1984/07/15/arts/antiques-view-jewelry-inspired-by-antiquity.html