Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef and Arpels is a story of marriage! In 1895 Estelle Arpels married Alfred Van Cleef. Estelle’s father was a dealer in precious stones and Alfred’s father was a diamond cutter from Amsterdam. In 1896 Alfred and his father in law Salomon Arpels joined names to start Van Cleef & Arpels, in Paris.

901239 - Circa 1985 Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Colombian Emerald Diamond Ring

In 1906, three years after Salomon died, Alfred and one of Estelle’s brothers, Charles, opened their first boutique at 22 Place Vendome, in Paris. Two years later, Estelle’s brother Julien joined the firm; they were joined in 1912 by her third brother, Louis. Estelle Arpels, took care of accounting.

73530 - Van Cleef & Arpels Circa 1960 Gold Sapphire Diamond Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels, for over one hundred years a premier jewelry house, is considered one of the most stylish jewelry firms of the 20th century. This not only because of their wide, and often renown, clientele, but also due to their many innovations, “both technical and stylistic in nature” (Set in Style). Alfred Van Cleef’s knowledge of stone cutting and administrative skill was supplemented by Julien’s excellent judgment of stones, Charles’ charm and salesmanship, and Louis’ affable personality. Whereas the latter played an important role in cultivating a loyal clientele, the shop’s placement – the Place Vendôme in Paris, France—was crucial in ensuring a wealthy one. Having previously worked on their skills at a less prominent location, moving to the center of the fashion and luxury market was a calculated move on Van Cleef & Arpels part – one that very quickly paid off.

43684 - Circa 1952 Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Diamond Necklace

Due to a lack of surviving archives, little is known about the firm’s involvement and activities during the first decade of its existence. The 1920s, however, show a design that reflected contemporary fashion, as well as a pervasive oriental influence. The 1922 discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb was a particularly great source of inspiration for many of their earlier pieces.

70795 - Art Deco Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Diamond Emerald Onyx Bracelet

In 1925, at the Exhibition of Arts Decoratifs et Industriales Modernes, they won a Grand Prix for a bracelet of ruby and diamond roses, and emerald leaves. Their design eventually became more geometric in shape as the Art Deco era began.

30907 - Art Deco Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Emerald Diamond French Cuff Links

Though Van Cleef & Arpels have widely been considered a leader in the use of motifs, often anticipating trends before they start, their pieces do show some constants. Their designs, for example, typically include fluid lines, graceful curves, color, and a general sense of movement.

43048 - Circa 1966 Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Diamond 3-Row Flexible Necklace

They were also known for working primarily with the major gemstones: diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. Despite – and perhaps somewhat due to – this seemingly confining tradition, they created many unique pieces of jewelry. Some are so popular that they are still being replicated today.

72187 - Circa 1965 Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Diamond Bracelet

The “invisible setting”, for example, one of their more groundbreaking innovations, is still widely used today. Developed in 1935 by Van Cleef and Julien, it consists of setting each stone against the next in a repeating pattern in such a way that there are no visible signs of setting (i.e. clasps, prongs…). It is a very time-consuming process, often involving the use of many stone (some of which typically end up breaking), since the fit must be perfect for the technique to work. Van Cleef & Arpels “developed [it] into a work of art” (TMJ). In addition to the aesthetic advantage, this technique also allows for a great deal of flexibility in the piece itself.

73260 - Art Deco Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Diamond Black Onyx Bracelet

For Van Cleef and Arpels, the 1930s were marked by an increased extravagance in their designs, as well as a desire to experiment with items other than conventional jewelry. They started creating clocks and hand mirrors, as well as a particularly unique gold, green, and black enamel night light, which reflected light through a multitude of rock crystal fragments. Their most unusual item, however, was an agate, jade, coral, lapis-lazuli, onyx, and gold cage made to house a live frog.

31255 - Art Deco Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Lipstick Compact

The rise of the nécessaire (vanity cases), both in terms of general use and on the part of jewelers due to the increased creativity its spacious surface allowed for, led to another well-known Van Cleef & Arpels innovation: the minaudière. Designed by Louis, and described as “a sleek gold box with hidden latches which could be opened to reveal comportments especially designed” to hold things such as face powder and rouge (TMJ), it quickly replaced many handbags.

31159 - Circa 1955 Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Mirror Compact

During that same time period, the second generation of Arpels started to take part in the business with Julien’s three sons: Claude, Jaques, and Pierre. Geometric motifs also began to be replaced by softer designs as the floral theme became popular.

72950 - Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Diamond Heart Link Bracelet

As a testament to this change, Van Cleef & Arpels designed the Ludo (a derivative of Ludovic, Louis’ nickname) bracelets in 1934, which were described as “supple ribbons formed either from flat panels of highly polished gold in the shape of hexagons, set side by side in a beehive pattern, or from rectangular panels arranged in a brickwork pattern” (TMJ). It often displayed a precious stone at its center, and was typically adorned with a multitude of additional stones along its sides.

40643 - Circa 190 Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Turquoise Diamond Pin Pendant

Van Cleef & Arpels sported a very illustrious clientele, including (but not limited to) the Vanderbilts, the Kennedys, the Duke of Westminster, King Farouk, and the Maharajah of Baroda. The Duchess of Windsor, known as a leader of fashion, was often photographed wearing their pieces. In 1967, Barbara Hutton commissioned a tiara with six pear-shaped diamonds, and when Pierre Arpels went to visit her during an illness, he found her wearing it in bed. In 1938, they were commissioned to create jewels for the wedding of Reza Pahlavi, Shah of Iran, and Princess Fawzia, daughter of King Fuad of Egypt. Their pieces ended up not only adorning the bride, but also most of the guests and entourage, including even the Queen herself.

901380 - Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Gold Diamond Sapphire Invisible Set Ring

By the late 1940s, their rousing success led to a decision to expand the business, originally opening more locations in Europe, and eventually becoming international: Monte Carlo, Hong Kong, NYC, India (which had a big influence on some of their designs), Japan...

40411 - Circa 1970 Van Cleef & Arpels Gold AGL Ruby Diamond Necklace

Their first appearance in the US was in 1939 at the New York World’s fair, where their successful exhibition led to them renting an office in Rockefeller center (and later 5th avenue), quickly developing an enthusiastic clientele. Since the 1960s, they have had exhibitions all over the world.

72603 - Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Diamond Twisted Marquise Bracelet

The scarcity of precious stones caused the Second World War was hardly a deterrent for them either. They turned to gold, and their many experiments with the metal led to all sorts of innovations in its handling; it could now be textured, fluted, twisted, perforated, and even manipulated to resemble a myriad fabrics.

23375 - Van Cleef & Arpels Retro Palladium Diamond Honeycomb Pin

Van Cleef & Arpels also continued to adapt to the times by recognizing the increased need for lighter “daytime wear” jewelry in the 1950s, and as such opened the first VCA boutique for casual, more reasonably priced jewelry in 1954.

72621 - Circa 1955 Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Gold Ruby Diamond French Link Bracelet

Despite this, their main focus remained the luxury market, and in 1965 they were chosen out of sixty other jewelers to create new jewels out of the Crown of Jewels for the Shah and Empress of Iran. Having been around for more than 110 years, and still in the hands of the Arpels family, they remain one of the most influential firms of the 20th century.

72229 - Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Platinum Ruby Diamond Bracelet

Sources:

The Master Jewelers, 1990, Nina Wahl

Set In Style, The Jewelry Of Van Cleef & Arpels, 2006, Sarah D. Coffin