Buccellati

Mario Buccellati was born in Ancona, Italy in 1891. In 1903, he began a goldsmith apprenticeship at Beltrami e Besnati in Milan and by 1919, had assumed ownership of the business, changing the firm's name to Buccellati. He made jeweled articles for such notables as the Popes Pius XI and XII and the royal families of Italy, Spain, and Egypt and pioneered a jewelry technique known as texture engraving, achieved with a "bulino" or chisel.

Buccellati pieces have rich, almost fabric-like textures worked into the surfaces.  Every surface is fashioned with a variety of engraving techniques, whether the surface is visible or not.  The result can resemble linen or lace, along with other textures such as honeycomb or webbing.  Buccellati has a bold and distinctive look, with a minimal use of diamonds. 

72522 - Buccellati Gold Sapphire Diamond Bracelet (and suite)

21893 - Buccellati Floral Circular Pin

Buccellati pieces are distinguished by their natural motifs, mixed metals, and unusual gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, large cabochons, carved rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, are often found adorning Buccellati jewelry. Buccellati produces its jewelry and silver mainly in small workshops, with skilled artisans. This staff is uniquely trained in the style and techniques of the house. Many of the artisans are the sons and grandsons that worked originally for Mario, which has created a closeness and 'family' identity among these workers causing them to remain for years and generations.

23520 - Buccellati Platinum Burma Ruby Floral Brooch

An exhibition in Madrid in 1920 enabled Buccellati to sell all his pieces, and later earned him an invitation to show his work at a solo show. This boosted the popularity of his work among the Spanish aristocracy, and he soon gained a loyal following back in Italy and abroad. The business flourished and Mario opened shops in Rome and Florence before World War II; and in New York and Palm Beach after the war.

"When I was thirteen or fourteen, I told my father that I wanted to come into the business, but he said to me, 'You have to finish your studies, but if you want, during holidays, you may come to work.' He had me cleaning and doing other humble tasks. At eighteen, he gave me the responsibility of the shop."  - Gianmaria Buccellati

73512 - Buccellati Gold Diamond Hinged Cuff Bracelet

Four Buccellati sons entered the business with their father. When Mario died in 1965, the sons split the business. Two brothers managed the Italian stores, and the other two brothers (Gianmaria & Luca) managed the US stores. Gianmaria kept the Buccellati production and laboratories. In 1971, a new brand, "Gianmaria Buccellati" was launched by Gianmaria. In 1973 Gianmaria and a group of colleagues, founded the Italian Gemological Institute. Gianmaria and Luca, built up the retail business in America. When Luca died in 1985, Gianmaria went on working with Luca's son Mario, who inherited his father's share of the business.

901697 - Buccellati Sapphire Diamond Ring

Gianmaria served as acting President for the next 25 years. Gianmaria set up shops in Paris, London, Moscow,Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Hong Kong, Milan, Ciosta Smeralda, Capri, Elba, Beverly Hills, Aspen, and Sydney. In September 2019, Cie Financiere Richemont acquired 100% of Buccellati

53800 - Buccellati Gold Hoop Earrings

Sources:

http://us.buccellati.com/en/timeline

https://www.incollect.com/articles/craftsmanship-by-tradition-the-jewelry-of-buccellati

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/05/13/fashion/jewelry-buccellati-gold-italy.html

https://www.sothebys.com/en/brands/buccellati