Cartier
The work to build Cartier into a global brand, took long sea voyages, visits to dangerous countries, appeasing temperamental clients & surviving 2 world wars. One of the most coveted brands in the world, Cartier has an iconic history, starting as a humble shop in Paris and transforming into the global empire it is today. Since the French Revolution, Cartier has been considered the King of Jewelers and has enchanted the world with its unique designs. Its famed jewelry and striking watches display boldness and a spirit of innovation.
72687 - Art Deco Cartier Platinum Ruby Diamond Tank Link Bracelet
Louis-Francois (1819-1904), Cartier’s founder, was a humble jewelry-store apprentice from a working-class background. As a young man, in 1847, he scraped together money to buy out his mentors when he learned they were moving on to a chicer part of town. For a number of years, the business struggled to make money, selling original jewelry designs as well as other fineries including porcelain dishware and vases.
30540 - Art Deco Cartier Gold Cabochon Ruby Corrugated Mirror Compact
By this time, Louis-François’ son, Alfred, had also started working in the business. The plan was always for Alfred to take over the running of the store. Alfred was much more business-oriented than his father and wanted to grow the business quickly. As it turned out, the pace of growth was helped by the most unforeseen of circumstances. In 1870, Paris – and Cartier’s world – changed. France had, over the last 100 years, become a nation of revolution. 1870 brought an uprising in Paris, known as the Socialist revolution. As the new rulers waged war, the aristocracy, in fear of their lives, looked for a way out. Unable to access their wealth due to bank access being restricted, they turned to whatever assets they had in their hands. This, for the most part, meant their jewelry.
31114 - Art Deco Cartier Platinum Gold Diamond Onyx Cuff Links
Alfred Cartier, seizing the opportunity which had suddenly presented itself, offered the aristocrats who came through his door just cents on the dollar for their finest pieces. Desperate to raise the money needed to flee the violence, they handed over their best pieces. In less than 2 years, Cartier had built one of the finest jewelry collections in France for a fraction of its actual worth. Over the next 20 years, Cartier became the go-to jeweler for the upper class. As success grew, so did the need to find larger premises. Throughout the next 20 years, the business moved several times.
53736 - Art Deco Cartier Platinum Diamond Sapphire Spray Bow Earrings
Although Alfred Cartier‘s Parisian business was directed more towards the middle class, during the second half of the 19th century he had opened a store in London that became the store where exceptional people bought their exceptional jewels. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII in London brought Cartier a large number of commissions for tiaras and other grandiose jewelry. This experience brought him the business of Edward the seventh, who unlike his mother queen Victoria, was a person who enjoyed luxury and a good life. He became an important client to the firm as soon as he became king. King Edward commissioned many pieces for queen Alexandria who is said to have dubbed Cartier “King of jewelers and the jeweler of kings.”
Upon Louis-François’s death in 1904, Alfred wanted to extend the reach and influence of the Cartier brand out of Paris and into other major cities. In true family firm spirit, Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the Cartier business. As the three grandsons came of age, they foresaw bigger opportunities for Cartier. All brought their individual skills to the company. Together, they created a brand which is still at the very top of its trade 100 years later. Louis was domineering as the oldest of four siblings (there was a little sister too) and he gave himself the plum job of holding down Paris and the rest of Europe.
70986 - Art Deco Cartier Platinum Diamond Jadeite Crystal Red Enamel Bracelet
Soon after Louis' marriage, the Cartiers moved their store to the Rue de la Paix, one of the leading shopping destinations in Paris and just down the street from the gleaming Worth showroom. That way, a wealthy woman on the hunt for a gorgeous gown didn’t have to go far if she wanted a brand-new bauble to go with it. Because Louis didn’t care to spend much time at home, he became a regular at Parisian nightclubs, mingling with courtesans and the kind of reckless, extravagant men they attracted. These men soon became some of Cartier’s best clients. Louis found that with almost every man came at least two opportunities for a sale; something for his lover, and perhaps, a guilt-driven jewel for the unsuspecting wife. Louis even developed a special filing system at the store to accommodate such buyers.
43315 - Cartier Gold Diamond Bamboo Necklace
Unlike many such arrangements, the three brothers were all very close. Louis was undoubtedly the driving force, but all three made their own mark. The biggest asset for Louis and for the company was his insistence on perfection. If he didn’t think a piece was up to the standard required, it simply never saw the light of day. Although all the major houses had very strict quality control, this was different. Never before had such strict rules been in place, and it set Cartier apart from the rest. The family motto became, "Never Copy. Only Create". This was a key factor in the expansion overseas. Louis knew that he could sell the Cartier brand abroad without fear of concerns about quality and the costs to both profits and the company’s reputation.
72951 - Circa 1955 Cartier Gold Platinum Diamond Bracelet
With Jacques having the London office thriving, and while Louis was creating his masterpieces, Pierre had big plans for the business in the US. As WW1 was drawing to a close, he told his brothers that they could kick start French luxury in New York. The US had seen huge economic growth from the late 19th into the early 20th century. With his fathers and brothers support, Pierre moved to NY.
Americans have always been important customers for Cartier. Even before the Parisian Jeweler opened its business on Rue de la Paix in 1899, Americans such as JP Morgan were patrons of Cartier’s previous store. By 1900 Paris was confirmed as the luxury and fashion center of the world, attracting a whole new generation of customers. Cartier was one of the “must-see” destinations for Americans in Paris, because it had a reputation for making the finest jewelry. Cartier became known as the jewelry to best compliment the “must-have” French created fashions of the time.
97764 - Circa 1950 Cartier Platinum Emerald Diamond Eternity Ring
In 1909, Pierre, opened a store in New York. He moved into 712 5th Ave., New York City. In 1917 Pierre famously bought a 5th Avenue townhouse. The price was $100 and a string of pearls- reputedly valued at 1 million dollars, at that time. This became the company headquarters in New York, and still might be the best deal they ever made, a marketing coup, taking a little known French jeweler, to the front pages of every US newspaper. Today the same building remains Cartier‘s Fifth Avenue headquarters in NYC. In 2001 the mayor of NYC christened the intersection of Fifth Avenue and 52nd “Place de Cartier”to officially acknowledge Cartier’s significant role in the history of the city and the USA.
Pierre’s business skills were important to running this enterprise, particularly negotiating with the millionaires who came into the store over 300, of which, lived in New York City in 1909. Cartier, through their principal salesman, became a significant host in NYC. Talent, such as George Gershwin, performed at parties for celebrities, and business tycoons. These parties became popular for bringing together the rich and famous in a relaxed atmosphere of conversation and music.
23346 - Circa 1998 Cartier Gold Diamond Emerald Dolphin Pin
The Hope Diamond was – and maybe still is – the most famous diamond in the world. Soon after opening the New York branch, Pierre bought the diamond, which was believed to be cursed. Previous owners had suffered dreadful deaths including a beheading and being a feast for wild dogs. Pierre had no intention of seeing if the curse was true, however. He quickly sold the diamond to NY socialite Evelyn Walsh McLean. A clause was included in the sale which stated that “Should any fatality occur to the family of Edward B. McLean within six months, the said Hope diamond is agreed to be exchanged for jewelry of equal value”. The sale itself, though, wasn’t straightforward. Pierre had to sue the McLeans for the $180,000 agreed price. Although no longer the owner of the Hope Diamond, Pierre knew Mrs. Walsh Mclean’s extravagant and often notorious lifestyle would attach the Cartier name to the Hope diamond for many years. And so it proved to be. Despite owning the diamond for only a very short time, Cartier’s name was inseparable from the spectacular diamond.
73110 - Cartier Gold Diamond Emerald Charm Bracelet
By WW2, the Cartier brand was at the very peak of the jewelry industry. Unlike many companies, Cartier had managed to ride out the Great Depression of the 1930s by doing more business in the Far East than in the US and other affected countries. After the war ended, the company continued to expand globally. Their reputation for quality and reliability meant that Cartier jewels and watches were amongst the most sought after anywhere.
23821 - Circa 1965 Cartier Gold Sapphire Ribbon Bow Pin
Cartier has created supreme products with style that come from a rich history and experiences. Vintage Cartier jewels are beautiful examples of styles that still resonate in the world of exquisite jewelry. Picking inspirations from travel and experiences like their classic Panthère collection which has the Panther appearing in different forms and poses in real or graphic designs or mere inspiration, Cartier has made the Panther a symbol of passionate, strong femininity that reflects a today's woman. Cartier was the first to set the design standards for watch making. The shapes of the watches are an example of the breakaway design from regular round watches. Cartier has made jewelry that is at times eccentric, often daring, unique designs that remain flowing and exceptional. These masters of design have a story of evolution behind each piece, and still exemplify the exceptional quality that makes Cartier a must have.
45091 - Cartier Rivoli Gold Diamond 3 Row Necklace
Louis and Jacques both died within months of each other in 1942, aged 67 and 58, respectively. And despite continued success, Pierre was now charged with running the business alone. The company remained family-owned, with the children of the three brothers running the Paris, London and New York branches of the business. But, upon Pierre’s death in 1964, the decision was taken to sell each branch separately.
53886 - Cartier Rivoli Gold Diamond Hoop Earrings
Although the Cartier brand was still the premier name in jewelry and watches, it no longer had any connection to the family. From 1847 until 1964, a Cartier had always led the company, but no more. In 1972, a consortium led by WW2 French Resistance hero, Robert Hocq, set about buying back all the various branches of Cartier. Hocq, himself, never got to see the expansion which eventually followed the reunification, having been tragically killed in an automobile accident in 1979. To this day the company remains a single entity. Although not led by the Cartier family, Cartier now operates 200 stores in 125 different countries.
901231 - Cartier French Gold Diamond Trinity Rolling Eternity Ring
SOURCES
Cartier and America – January 10, 2010, by Martin Chapman, ISBN: 9783791350158
Cartier 1899-1949: The Journey of a Style – September 25, 2007, by Nuno Vassallo E Silva (Author), Maria Fernanda Passos Leite (Author), Judy Rudoe (Author), Come Remy (Author), ISBN # 9788861300262
The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire, Author : Francesca Cartier Brickell - November 26, 2019, ISBN-10 : 052562161X
https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/icons-of-design-cartier
https://www.lifestyleasia.com/sg/sponsored/cartier-icons-jewellery-watches-timeless-design-legacy/