Cartier’s Watches & the European Watch & Clock Co.

The European Watch and Clock Co, began in the 1920s as a joint venture between Cartier and Edmund Jaeger, of the Jaeger-LeCoultre firm, leaders in innovative watch movement manufacturing. Although Cartier continued to work with other movement manufacturers, many of their top-line items featured EWC movements, created within the Jaeger-LeCoultre factory in Le Sentier Switzerland. Perhaps no single jewelry or watch brand evokes more glamour, design innovation and noble ties than Cartier. Founded in Paris in 1847, the firm immediately set a high standard for style and luxury creating magnificent jewelry for some of the world's most high-profile clients.

31004 - Art Deco Cartier Watch and Lighter

Cartier was always connected to the biggest names in fashion, politics and culture, and in 1904, designed the first men’s wristwatch, the Santos, named for famed Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Made in a square case, with a bezel set prominently with eight screws and featured thick lugs to connect the gold head to a strap. Not only was this model more practical for an aviator who could now read the time on his wrist while flying, but it also signaled attention to aesthetics that was not always seen in timepieces of the era.

61155 - Cartier European Watch & Clock Co Art Deco Platinum Diamond French Watch

Over the years, Cartier has produced some of the coolest and most iconic watches, including the hyper-elongated Tanks and oval Bagnoires. In 1967, they created the Crash watch, one of the most unusual watch designs that broke all sorts of rules with an asymmetric, organic-shaped case, said to have been inspired by the shape of a Bagnoire Alongée watch after a car crash had warped and melted the case. It’s also clearly inspired by Salvador Dali’s paintings of melting clocks in a dreamscape.

61290 - Cartier CRASH Watch

Before Cartier teamed with Edmund Jaeger, one of the leaders and innovators of movement manufacturing, to create European Watch and Clock Co., Cartier movements were largely sourced from the top Geneva watch making firms like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Although they would continue to work with these houses for some special orders and retail pieces, the majority of their top-line items would feature EWC movements. Based in the Jaeger-LeCoultre factory, EWC movements quickly gained a reputation for being of the highest quality and most exacting specifications. Today, Cartier watches from the 1930s through the 1950s command a premium when they feature an EWC movement as they are seen as the most original pieces possible.

61272 - Cartier Art Deco French Pocket Watch

Not only was Cartier a bold designer and innovator in its own right, but it also collaborated with the top watch firms to retail their most desirable pieces to their devoted clientele.

60706 - Art Deco Cartier Platinum Diamond Cartier Watch

One of these extraordinary watches is the Cartier Baguette Duoplan Baguette Watch. The most interesting thing about this watch is the Calibre 101 movement, made by Jaeger-LeCoultre. This movement has a long history, first launched in 1929 and based on a movement called the Duoplan, 1924. All parts have to be individually hand-finished, and production is limited to a few dozen per year just because of its technical complexity.

60768 - Art Deco Cartier French European Watch & Clock Co Backwind Baguette Watch, Circa 1930

The baguette shape of Calibre 101 contains 98 parts in a size of just 14 x 4.8 x 3.4mm. The entire movement weighs about a gram. The hand-wound movement has a power reserve of 33 hours. What’s surprising is that nothing has ever been built to replace it. Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre both belong to the Richemont Group and so it’s not surprising that Cartier can have access to these super-specialized movements that only a few watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre are capable of making.

61164 - Curb Link Style Cartier European Watch & Clock

Cartier’s focus on quality and design, meant never having the production numbers of firms like Rolex, so Cartier’s European Watch and Clock watches from the early part of the 20th Century are harder to find and feel a bit more personal. When they become available, many of them have been altered and monkeyed with over the years. Finding examples with original parts and in excellent condition is very difficult, but when restored, there’s really something magical about them. They have a classic elegance that you just don’t see with other companies. They’re rather simple designs but are beautiful. Aficionados also love how Cartier really was the first company to design things that we take for granted today, like rectangular and curb link watches.

60940 - Cartier European Watch & Clock Co Gents Watch, Circa 1960

Some of the most famous and powerful people in the world from Frank Sinatra and Cary Grant to Harry Truman, Charles De Gaulle and Franklin Delano Roosevelt have worn Cartier watches. It has always been the pinnacle of style and technical perfection. Today their vintage watches, instantly recognizable, stand-out for their iconic style and classic design suitable for either casual or formal settings.

Considering the labor-intensive intricate design and rarity these watches are a great value in the market. Availability of these mechanical works of art has diminished over the past decade. One could only predict they will only continue to grow more rare and valuable in the future.

Sources:

Time in Gold , Wristwatches (1988)
Gerald Viola, Gisbert L. Brunner, ISBN-10: 0887401376

https://www.matthewbaininc.com/post/vintage-cartier

https://www.globalblue.com/destinations/germany/frankfurt/the-story-behind-cartiers-crash-watch/

https://www.interwatches.com/cartier-history

http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/watches/article/history-of-cartier-crash-watches/

https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/ca/en/chronicles/news-events/heritage-wonders-caliber-101.html

http://secondtimeround.com/cartier-history.html