Harry Winston
Harry Winston jewels are rare, exceptional and utterly timeless. Harry Winston left an indelible mark on gems and jewelry. Winston's father, Jacob, had emigrated from the Ukraine in 1890 and established a small workshop and jewelry repair shop in Manhattan. Born in 1896, Harry Winston spent time at his father’s jewelry shop as a young boy. When Harry was seven his mother passed away and the family moved to California to establish a store in Hollywood. It was during this period that the legend of Harry Winston began. He showed an early eye for jewels. As the story goes, when he was only 12 years old, he snapped up a green stone ring from a junk bin at a neighborhood pawn shop for 25 cents. Two days later, he supposedly sold it for $800, as it was really a two-carat emerald. Winston left school at age 15 to work at the family business in Los Angeles, but soon decided to strike out on his own.
53061 - Circa 1966 Winston Diamond Earrings
In 1916, at the age of 19, Winston opened up the Premier Diamond Company. Winston soon began purchasing jewelry from estate sales, in which precious jewels were available for purchase because the pieces were old fashioned and out of style. Winston repolished the stones, placed them in new settings and sold them for a large profit. During the depression and through the 1930’s Harry’s talents as a jewelry broker were much sought after. His reputation for dispensing entire estates, realizing substantial profits for banks, and trustees, continued to grow.
53758 - Gold Sapphire Diamond Earrings
In 1932, he was able to open Harry Winston Inc, under which brand he designed, manufactured and sold his own jewelry. His philosophy was simple but revolutionary: jewellery design should always be dictated by the gemstones themselves, rather than their settings.In 1932, he opened Harry Winston Inc. in New york City, at 527 Fifth Ave. Harry’s new motto; “Rare Jewels of the World”
Each Winston created piece was inspired by the gems themselves, then crafted in a collaboration between gemologist, designer and jeweler to create the most beautiful jewelry possible. Each gem was transformed into exquisite pieces of sculpted jewelry art. Harry preferred beautiful gem stones arranged in lyrical clusters without heavy metal settings. This resulted in a bright modern look with timeless design, great aesthetics and enduring style.
In addition to the legacy of his jewelry, Harry Winston embraced jewels. Winston acquired gems from all around the world like the 601-carat Lesotho rough diamond, unearthed by a woman in South Africa. It was purchased by Winston and cleaved during a live broadcast in 1968 resulting in 18 separate gems. The largest gem, the Lesotho One, a 71.73 carat emerald cut diamond and Lesotho Three, a 40.42-carat diamond purchased by Aristotle Onassis for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ engagement ring.
901086 - Winston Platinum AGL Emerald Diamond Ring
Throughout his life, Harry Winston used his wealth and influence to support worthy causes. Between 1949 and 1953, he took his most famous jewels – including the Hope Diamond, the Star of the East and the Jonker – on tour across America. The exhibition, entitled “The Court of Jewels”, raised large sums of money for local charities.
For a man in the public eye he was a very private man. Fearing security breaches, he refused to be photographed from 1960 until his death in 1978. Winston’s wife Edna, whom he’d happily married in 1933, took control of the company. Following her death eight years later, Harry’s two surviving sons, Ronald and Bruce, fought bitterly over control of the company. Eventually Ronald was forced to pay $54.1 million to buy out his brother Bruce’s share. The Harry Winston Co. is still known for exquisite jewelry and is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swiss Swatch Group, which acquired it from the Toronto-based Harry Winston Diamond Corporation in January 2013.
901702 - Winston GIA Yellow Diamond Emerald Ring
Sources:
American Jewelry: Glamour & Tradition
Proddow, Penny and Debra Healy. Published by Rizzoli, New York (1987) ISBN 10:0847808300
https://www.christies.com/features/A-guide-to-the-jewels-of-Harry-Winston-10191-1.aspx
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/jewellery/harry-winston-bond-street/through-the-years/
https://www.truefacet.com/guide/beginning-brand-harry-winston/