Trabert & Hoeffer- and a little Mauboussin
73092 - Art Deco "Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin" "Reflection" Platinum Diamond Bangle
Randolph J. Trabert and William Howard Hoeffer, having both learned the jewelry and gem businesses with established jewelry firms, joined together to form Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc. in 1926. In the beginning, they imported designs from France. Trabert & Hoeffer took their cues from the likes of Tiffany, Mauboussin, Cartier, and others. One of the ways used to develop their name was the purchase of historic jewels of royal provenance. A successful marketing campaign that served them well included the display of earrings, said to have belonged to Catherine the Great, Empress of Russia. Trabert & Hoeffer Co’s rise was meteoric until the infamous stock market crash in 1929, followed closely by the death of Randolph Trabert in 1930.
Nothing fueled the redesigning of America more than the Great Depression. It was during this time that the Parisian jewelry House, Mauboussin, (established in 1827) made some unlucky forays into the American market. Mauboussin expanded, adding a Palm Beach location along with ultra-modern headquarters on East 15th Street in New York, timed perfectly to coincide with the 1929 stock market crash. Having imported vast quantities of jewelry and gems from France hoping to capture the American market for French jewelry, by the early 1930’s, serious financial trouble made it necessary for them to sell off their stock. Struggling to surrive massive financial woes, and desperate to withdraw with minimum losses, in 1936 Mauboussin completed an agreement with Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc. whereby the American firm would assume Mauboussin's inventory and name. The new business was called Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc.-Mauboussin. This collaboration with Trabert & Hoeffer, kept the Mauboussin name alive, while adding a dash of panache to the reputation of Trabert & Hoeffer.
Trabert & Hoeffer - Mauboussin created a Park Avenue headquarters and expanded operations to the locations where potential clients of means went to relax. Palm Beach, Los Angeles, Atlantic City were the first branches opened followed by Miami Beach, Chicago, and Beverly Hills. The use of new modern designs was already an established component in films, and what better place to feature the latest in contemporary jewelry than on the silver screen. While the government was employing thousands of individuals to bring to life the vision of the “New Deal” private manufacturers were working to create products that were stylish, moderately priced products, Jewelers were no exception.
23981 - Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin "Reflection" Diamond Pin
In 1938, Trabert & Hoeffer - Mauboussin developed a more affordable, but highly stylish line of jewelry called Reflection. Designed by Gustave Toth, Reflection jewels were artfully assembled from an assortment of cast design elements. Casting enabled a client to be part of the design process. A client could select and arrange these pieces, making them feel like an important part of the design team for their “custom” jewel. Gold was again the metal of choice for jewelry and the jewelry was cast in various gold colors for a truly modern look. Chunky colored gemstones, completed the look. Many of these pieces were able to be taken apart and reassembled into a different looking piece making the jewel truly convertible. In fact, Trabert & Hoeffer - Mauboussin was known for their innovative designs that allowed for conversions into bracelets, pins, and earrings. A pin that could clip onto a bracelet for an entirely new look and pin clips that could be worn as earrings giving the consumer a myriad of fashion choices in one piece.
70661 - Circa 1938 Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin Platinum Diamond Bracelet
When World War II crippled the jewelry industry’s access to platinum and precious gems and the U.S. imposed a luxury tax on jewelry and other items, many jewelers were unable to keep their doors open. The Army took over the hotels where Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin had retail outlets – Atlantic City, Miami Beach, and Palm Beach. The Reflection line which used advanced manufacturing techniques to keep costs down maintained its successful run during this time along with the smaller zodiac, alphabet, and novelty jewelry. Redesign and re-use of customers' gems and precious metals into sleek modern jewels was another way Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin remained viable through the war years.
23315 - Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin Gold Sapphire Citrine Diamond Pin
When their French counterparts were closed by the Nazi occupation, Mauboussin was able to continue their operations in the U.S. and eventually return to their former glory. Their association with Trabert & Hoeffer ended in 1953. Hoeffer began to divest himself of the jewelry business, losing interest in keeping up with the changing styles, and in 1951, he transferred his stock to other members of the firm. Hoeffer retired officially in 1956 and died in 1968.
52539 - Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin Gold Sapphire Citrine Diamond Earrings
Sources:
The Jewels of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin A History of American Style and Innovation (2014)
Yvonne Markowitz, Nonie Gadsden ISBN-10: 0878468110
https://theadventurine.com/culture/jewelry-history/marlene-dietrich-wore-her-emeralds-on-screen-and-off-duty/
https://www.langantiques.com/university/trabert-hoeffer-mauboussin/
https://www.nationaljeweler.com/independents/retail-profiles/7663-trabert-hoeffer-to-close-last-standing-store